Rainier Cherry Ice Cream

Growing up our neighbor had a Rainier cherry tree the size of a house. On hot summer afternoons a half dozen children perched on its branches, eating cherries for hours on end.  It’s a quintessential summer image that stirs a nostalgic love for farms, open fields, and simple country life. Every summer, the arrival of the pink and yellow cherry harvest makes me smile and unwind into the sweet satisfaction they impart.

Normally, this time of year I just eat them plain.  By the pound.  But, I’ve been on this cherry ice cream kick recently, and it occurred to me that I’ve haven’t ever come across one that featured the Glorious Rainier.  After a less than satisfactory Rainier cherry ice cream recipe search, I decided to just modify a few other ice cream recipes and see how it turned out.  The result was a sweet, subtle cherry ice cream that highlighted the delicate Rainier flavor.  Hot fudge is a lovely addition.

Rainier Cherry Ice Cream
Makes 1 quart.  Modified from several of Cook’s Illustrated ice cream recipes

1 lb Rainier cherries (about 3 cups)
Salt
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
Juice of half a lemon, or more to taste
2 Tb vodka (optional, for texture not flavor)
1/2 tsp almond extract

1. Wash and pit the cherries.  Toss cherries, pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a medium nonreactive saucepan.  Crush with a fork or other mashing implement until partially broken down.   Let stand, stirring occasionally, until the juices have been released and the sugar dissolved, about 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat the milk, cream, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and another pinch of salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally until steam appears, about 5 minutes.  While the milk is heating, whisk the yolks and remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar in a medium bowl until combined and pale yellow. Slowly whisk about half the warm milk mixture into the beaten yolks, 1/2 cup at a time, until combined. Then whisk the milk-yolk mixture back into the warm milk in the saucepan.  Set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is slightly thickened (180 to 185 degrees if you’re into measuring). Do you best not boil the mixture, or the eggs will curdle, and you will have a lot straining ahead of you. Cool the custard to room temperature, stirring it occasionally to help it cool.  You can optionally cool it in an ice water bath if you’d like this process to go more quickly.

3. While the custard is cooling, set the saucepan containing the cherries over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the cherries are softened and broken down, about 3 minutes total. Strain the cherries, reserving the juices. Transfer the cherries to a small bowl; stir in the lemon juice and vodka, then cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold. Stir the almond extract and the reserved juices into the cooled custard, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold it (40 degrees or lower), at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.

4. Pour the custard into the ice cream machine canister and churn, following the manufacturer’s instructions, until the mixture resembles soft-serve ice cream. Add the cherries and continue to churn the ice cream until the cherries are fully incorporated and slightly broken down, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, and freeze the ice cream until firm, at least 2 hours.

Note: Though it may be utterly poor form, if I’m feeling particularly impatient and too lazy for an ice bath,  I’ll just put the whole pan of custard in the freezer and stir it periodically to speed the cooling process. And if I’m not particularly in the mood to scrub bits out of the strainer, I’ll just mix everything together instead of separating fruit from juices.  It’s just a little tough of the ice cream maker, and you’ll end up with smaller cherry chunks, but it’s always worked out fine.  The original recipe also recommends straining the custard hot off the stove, but as long as there are no chunks, I never do.